A temperature sensor in Peugeot in 308, 408 and 3008

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Supposedly overheating of engine often happens in Peugeot, but it is an engine coolant (antifreeze) temperature sensor that gets out of the order.

temperature sensor Peugeot1

Firstly, as a rule, the temperature pointer starts slacking (as it is shown in the video below), then, when the sensor is completely out of order, the pointer drifts into the red zone of engine overheating.

There are several kinds of thermostat housing, in which a sensor is fixed with an installed external and internal alternate.

Usually, there are no problems with an external alternate; its replacement does not present any difficulty or trouble, it is shown on a photo.

temperature sensor Peugeot

Lift the plastic electrical wire bundle up – 6

Pull the catch out – 7

Cut the electrical connector off

Take a temperature sensor out – A

Replace a rubber sealing ring.

 

Let us speak about how to get rid of the problem of engine overheating by changing an installed temperature sensor. Of course, an installed sensor cannot be replaced without changing thermostat housing itself, but there is a much simpler way out. The French are crafty and they invented a sensor-insertion, which is driven in a drain valve of excessive air in a cooling system. It is presented on the photo.

temperature sensor Peugeot 2

But firstly, one needs to get to it, in order to replace it replace it with a bleeder plug. Doing this in standard models is much simpler than in turbo ones.

If your Peugeot is standard, not turbo, you can do this having turned off a resonator and an air intake manifold.

temperature sensor Peugeot 308

temperature sensor Peugeot 3008

Caution: do not change it without releasing pressure from the water cooling system by removing a cap from the expansion tank, otherwise you risk to be poured over with hot antifreeze from the turned off drain valve.

Remove the cap from the expansion tank, wait for a couple of seconds, and tight it back. Now you can install it. Do not worry, antifreeze will not pour out from the removed drain valve (well, 5 grams do not count, it is no biggie). After this you will not have to run fluid through the cooling system.

In turbo models it is a bit more difficult to change it; you will have to take two air intake manifolds, without this you cannot get to it.

Do not forget to turn an electrical connector on, you will find it a bit further in the deep. After installation you do not need to run anything through

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8 Comments on A temperature sensor in Peugeot in 308, 408 and 3008

  1. Problema cu un Peugeot 308SW, Blue Lease 1.6 VTi 5 EP6 88 kW (120 Hp)din2012(140000KM) si dupa 400 km s-a aprins avarie la motor m-am la service am facut testare reprezentanta, si alte servisuri autorizate …. obtinut pareri diferite, lant slabit , garnitutura ghiuloasa ciupita, supapa blocata, segment ,… instalatie electrica defecta intre bobina si calculator… si chiar ca, calculatorul este stricat si trebuie schimbat. Testerul indica P1336, P1338 rateu scanteie cilindrul 2, s-au schimbat bobinele 2cu 3, bujii noi, dar dupa ce se incalzeste apa la 90* si motorul in mers daca opresc la semafor(sau daca o tin pornita pe loc pana atinge temperatura de 90*) scade turatia de la 900 lav 700 incepe sa vibreze motorul, si merge in trei cilindri respectiv cilindrul 2 nu mai functioneaza avand timp injectie 0.00mls iar ceilalti urca de la 2,82mls(in mers normal pana la atingerea temperaturii 90*) la 3,12 mls(pe tester Texa) deci dupa ce se incalzeste motorul ajungand apa la 90* apare avaria motor si motorul intra iar in vibratii si porneste ventilatorul de racire puternic iar daca opresc motorul acesta mai merge inca 4-5 minute. A schimbat bobina de la bujia 2 cu una noua am iesit in probe la aceeasi temperatura aceleasi simtome …concluzie ca , calculatorul este de vina si am scos si pus la loc(in cutie ca am cumparat-o) cealalta bobina. Dupa testarea asta nu mai functioneaza afisajul din bord despre km ramasi pana la alimentare si consumul pe km iar mecanicul respectiv mi-a spus ca asa e normal si ca o sa revina dupa 40-50km parcursi.
    Acum motorul la pornire merge direct in trei cilindri si porneste inclusiv ventilatorul(la rece direct), am fost la alt service aceeasi testare TEXA diagnoza defect P1336, P1338, rateu cilindru 2 , se schimba bobina 2 cu 4(deci nu 2 cu 3 ca celalalt ) si la tester apare acum rateu cilindrul 4 si se schimba aceesi bobina cumparata de la celalalt mecanic pe cilindrul 2… si motorul pare a functiona normal si plec in probe ..pe drum se refac setarile cele legate de consum si km dar mai prezinta unele vibratii, intreruperi scurte si bineinteles ventilatorul porneste iar mecanicul spune ca este normal si ca isi va da drumul peste cativa zeci de km parcursi.
    Alt diagnstic la reprezentata ..trebuiesc schimbate toate bobinele de la bujii iar motorul fiind valvetronic spune ca trebuie verificati si senzorii care indica devierea axa came admisie evacuare si inlocuiti. Daca nu… tot calcaulatorul este de vina (Bosch MEV17.4.2 daca se intra pe diagnoza si valorile reale nu sant corecte). Au schimbat softul cu o versiune noua, degeaba ei sustin ca e ceva mecanic supapa, arcuri distributie….dar daca in mers prelungit nu se aude nimic zgomot e normal?
    Acum in fiecare dimineata la pornire nu mai apare nimic in bord , dar cand temperarura se ridica la 90* in ceasul de bordsi sunt la relanteu intra semnalul de avarie porneste electoventilatorul in turatie mare si incepe o balbaiala a motorului in 3 cilindri , daca o turez la peste 1200 rot. Merge normal dar electeoventilatorul merge in continuare turat. La plecare in drum mai lung dispare turatia accelerata a ventilatorului si motorul merge normal … dar la urmatoarea stationare iar incepe …ce sa-i fac?
    O intrebare cand am cod P0118 senzor temperatura agent de racire . Semnal prea mare + P0300 cilindri diferiti rateu aprindere recunoscut +P1338 rateu aprindere cilindru 2 rateu aprindere recunoscut
    … o diagnoza la Peugeot 308sw 1.6 VTI EP6, …toate astea dupa ce pornesc masina fb. mers normal pana ce temperatura ajunge la 90* si la relantistat pe loc sau semafor apare semnalul, scade turatia 600rot . morneste puternic ventilatorul si merge in trei cilindri..daca accelerez putin si plec sau opresc motorul turatia revine la normal numai ventilatorul ramane pornit insa la un mers mai prelungit 10-15 km dispare si daca opresc(imediat nu sa stau in relanti) ventilatorul nu mai este in avarie dar lampa ramane aprinsa.Daca plec in aceleasi conditii nu are nimic numai sa nu o tin in relantiu prea mult. Dimineata sau dupa o stationare prelungita 4-5 ore dispare lampa si apoi se reaia in aceleasi conditii .Nu am primit explicatii decat , ca ECU este defect.Mentionez ca la indicatiile mecanicilor din service am schimbat bujii, bobina de la cilindrul 2, curatat, centricubat injectoare … cand am ajuns de fapt eu am cerut sa schimbam sonda de la termostat …blocaj .. nimeni nu a stiut de modelul de termostat .. este un corp de conducte cu doi senzori dar am cerut sa verifice pe cel care se scoate insa toti au refuzat(parerea mea asta este ca aici ar fi defectul , ceva transmite eronat temperatura din motor) si toti spun ca ECU este de

    • Salut. Am aceasi pb la un 308 1.6 vti 2009. Poti sa mi spui te rog daca ai rezolvat pb. La timisoara am fost peste tot cu ea si nu stie nimeni sa i dea de cap. Ms. 0723707394

  2. The engine cranks well for one minute and suddenly it changes the idling pattern and starts to miss fire, what could be the problem. We replaced the top of the engine and have valves taken care of by the engineering. The marks on the cam sprockets where should they point.
    Peugeot 308,
    1.6 engine capacity has two phasor sprockets
    2009

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